Samstag, 19. November 2016

Part 1 - Shanghai, Xi'an





Part 1 - Shanghai, Xi'an 
                                                                                                                                                          





Thursday, 8.9.2016 - At Shanghai airport



By MagLev train (magnetic levitation train) into the city. Max speed 430km/h, but in the morning, when we traveled, only 300kmh :-(








First activity was to meet Mey and to hand over our passports. She is the Shanghai based colleague of Peter Yang, the Chinese travel agent who had booked our train tickets, organised the Tibet permits, the guide and driver in Tibet (as since 2008 unattended travelling within Tibet has been forbidden for tourists).   
While Mey went to the train station to collect our tickets to Xi’an and Lhasa, we had time for a stroll through Shanghai.

Shanghai presents itself as …
… modern


 patriotic
 





















… idyllic


… artistic

… traditional (calligraphy with water)






...wild


… a culinary melting pot
 


… a little buddhist 
 

… fake


… and international





Ticket Issues
At noon we received a phone call from Peter telling us about a small but relevant mistake that they had made: for the ticket application they had used Friedelinds’s old, invalid passport ID, and not the new one we sent him in April. Therefore the train authorities refused to issue her train tickets. In a six-hour odyssey we tried to convince low and high ranking police and train officials that the old and the new passport belong to the same person. But none of them dared to release the tickets.
Finally we decided to go to the Austrian consulate the following day, luckily a weekday, to ask them to certify that both passports are Friedelind’s. Finally, on Friday at 11am, we received the certificate.

One hour later, without further questions, the train tickets were issued.
 
Three hours later we boarded the train to Xi’an, our next destination.
  
Many thanks, dear Mey and Austrian consulate – we are happy, but tired.

Shanghai - Xi’an,  Train Z25, Friday 9.09.2106,15:52 - Saturday, 10.09.2016,08:00
The train ride leads through a flat and heavily populated area of China, we pass town after town, each of which with a population of at least one million inhabitants, densly packed in huge apartment blocks. China’s economy has developed rapidly during the last 30 years, but at the cost of low quality of life in big uniform urban centres.





Saturday, 10.9.2016 - Xi’an and the “Terracotta Army”
Originally we wanted to travel on a direct train from Shanghai to Lhasa – but due to high season Peter Yang was not able to book two soft sleeper tickets on that train. So he made reservations for the Z252  Shanghai - Xi’an, and the Z264, Xi’an-Lhasa on the next day.
Now we had the excellent opportunity of seeing the impressive archaeological site of the Mausoleum of the first Quing Emperor, 40 km east of Xi’an, boasting the beautiful “Terracotta Army”. 
(https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terracotta_Army)

 
China's first emperor, Qin Shi Huang, made his people build this incredible collection of an army, made of terracotta (~210BC). 8.000 warriors, 650 horses and 130 chariots have been excavated and restored by now, but many areas are still untouched, like the still hermetically sealed tomb of the emperor.








        


Soon after Qin Shi Huan's death his successor destroyed much of the construction , which flattened the figures , until they were rediscovered  in 1974 by a local farmer.



Now painstakingly restored:




The town's medieval wall


The Grand Dynasty Culture Hotel





All photos by the author, apart from those marked with 'www', which were taken from various internet sources.

Part 2 - Xi'an to Lhasa




Part 2 - Xi'an to Lhasa 

                                                                                                                                                                                      


Xi’an - Xining (Qinghai), train Z265, Sun 11.09. 09:45-19:30
This train is officially named 'Z264 Tibet train Chengdu-Lhasa' although it ends in Xining, where it is replaced by train Z265, which carries especially equipped coaches with oxygen supply, as the tracks lead over two passes above 5,000m. This first stretch is rather similar to the Shanghai-Xiàn stretch, leading through densely populated areas. 








Xining train station, changing trains

Fellow passengers cleaning the windows for unobstructed photo shootings.





Xining (Qinghai) – Lhasa (Tibet), train  Z265, Sun 11.09. 20:00 - Mon 12.09. 17:30
Unfortunately the first 11hours of the train ride are during night time, so the steep ascent from 1500m up to the Golmud plateau (above 3000m) and further up to the Tuotuehe pass (5100m) cannot be experienced by daylight.  Ascending the first time up to  above 5000m can only be experienced electronically.


But soon after Tuotuehe pass the sun rises ...








After the second pass, the Tanggula Pass (5100m), the colours become unreal















But what disturbs the idyll? Several kilometre-long army transports into Tibet. We had not heard of any current conflicts between China and India – so why? The answer we found two weeks later …






Arrival at Lhasa Train Station (30 minutes early, after a trip of 34hs, quite impressive)




All photos by the author, apart from those marked with 'www', which were taken from various internet sources.